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Windows XP should recognize the new drive immediately. If there's any part that you found confusing, let me know. I hope that was helpful to anybody that's never done something like this before. Plug in the power connector and the USB cable (unless you're using Firewire). Otherwise, it could be sliding around in the case, which is bad.Īnd there you go.the hard part's over! You now have an external DVD burner. Turn the drive upside down, and use the screws that come with the enclosure to screw the drive in place. Note that I've also got the top pulled back, which will make it easier to plug in the cables.Īll that's left to do now is plug the audio cable, the IDE cable, and the power connectors into the drive. With the front panel removed, we can slide the drive into the enclosure. On this particular drive, the order left to right is CS, SL and MA for the afore-mentioned modes. Here you can see the labels that are sometimes on the drive itself (at the very top). For our purposes, we want to set the jumper to Master, which is where it is in the above photo. CS should only be used if you're sure that your motherboard supports CS mode. IDE drives can be set for Master, Slave, or CS which stands for Cable Select. Sometimes the drive shows you which jumper settings need to be used, and sometimes you'll have to use the manual. In this image there are 3 vertical sets of pins, and the 2 pins on the right have a jumper that's connecting them. The jumpers however, could be set incorrectly depending on where the drive may or may not have been used previously.Īn awesome jumper photo yes? Behold my macro skillz! Jumpers are very small connectors, and their job is to bridge, or jump, two connecting pins together. The audio, IDE and power connectors are all "keyed" meaning it's almost impossible to plug the cable in the wrong way. From left to right, we have the 2 audio connectors, the jumpers, the IDE connector, and the power connector. The business end of a typical CD/DVD drive. It received some good reviews, and Newegg had an OEM model for $39.00 (!)Īs you can see, this model is an internal drive, usually meant to be installed in a standard drive bay of a PC. Very straight forward.power, IDE cable, and audio connector. The connectors, once you've unscrewed the back plate and opened the case. Power in, 2 Firewire ports, USB 2.0, the power switch, and RCA audio jacks. If it's a smaller drive used with an installation mount, you could probably put the faceplate back on. The front panel pops off if you're putting a full size 5.25" drive into it. I picked it because I'd read some pretty good reviews from other people, and it handled both USB 2.0 and Firewire. I'm going to use the Kingwin KH-525UF-S 5.25" Enclosure. It's pretty simple, so let's get started! Also, there limits to how many IDE drives you can have, while you can have a ton of external USB drives. The other reason is that it gives you more flexibility.once you're used to doing this, you can swap out any internal drive to an enclosure, or take a drive you'd previously made external and put it back inside your computer. You can make your own external by getting an inexpensive internal drive, and putting it in an inexpensive drive enclosure. First off, some companies charge an arm and a leg for external drives. Why would you want to do this? For a couple of reasons. Here's a tutorial on converting an internal drive into an external drive with the use of a drive enclosure. Making an Internal Drive an External Drive with a Drive Enclosure
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